Guest Post: A Louisiana birder's ode to Minnesota’s Sax-Zim Bog

By Crystal N. Johnson

Published August 29, 2024 at 1:07 PM CDT

A selfie shows Crystal N. Johnson beaming with enthusiasm in front of the Sax-Zim Bog welcome center sign. The sign pictures a Great Grey Owl. — Crystal N. Johnson visits the Sax-Zim Bog near Meadowlands, Minnesota, in late July/early August of 2024. She remarked, "I had just driven 1,300 miles to reach my destination. I was overcome with joy. Clearly."

Crystal N. Johnson, an environmental sciences professor at Louisiana State University, was on a quest to find a Great Grey Owl — and some peace and quiet. Her search brought her to the Sax-Zim Bog near Meadowlands, MN.

MEADOWLANDS — "Wow."

This was the word I repeated over and over and over again as I fell in love with the Meadowlands, Minnesota and Sax-Zim Bog area. Frankly? I don't even know how I got there. All I wanted was to see one single Great Gray Owl. So, naturally, I planned my trip for Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks.

But as I began planning, I realized something. I hate crowds, and I'm afraid of heights. So, when a friend suggested I check out the Sax-Zim Bog, I thought it was some kind of strange French wetland in the middle of nowhere. Boy, was I wrong!

Many mosquitos attempt to bite through two layers of pants and tall rubber boots. — Crystal N. Johnson visits the Sax-Zim Bog in Meadowlands, Minnesota, in late July/early August of 2024. She remarked, "As a southerner, I was protected because I felt 'cold' in Meadowlands and wore double layers during my trip. Mosquitoes can't penetrate double layers of fabric. I didn't feel a thing."

Naturally, my first step was to check my old faithful travel companion, eBird. So, they did have Great Gray Owls: check! Turns out they had the bonus of NOT having Yellowstone-level crowds. Double-check! The triple-check came from the fact that I, a heat-adapted Southerner, would already be "mosquito-resistant" because my cold-intolerant skin would have me wearing long sleeves the whole time. Their idea of summer heat would be MY idea of winter cold. Perfect!

And then when I saw how flat and easy to navigate it was. Are you kidding me??? I couldn't book my stay fast enough. I searched for chain hotels and found none (yet another green flag for me), and then I got yet another green flag when I found they had a YURT! Y'all. They have a whole YURT for people to rent! Right there *in* the Sax-Zim Bog. I couldn't believe it.

With green flags continuing to pile up, I found myself falling in love with The Yurt and this new city that I just might have to adopt as my sister city. The owners of The Yurt, Megan and Aaron Maly, answered all of my questions and made me feel right at home. As I learned more about the Maly family, their property, The Yurt, and Meadowlands in general, I knew I had made the right decision.

A selfie shows Crystal N. Johnson with a mask-style bug gaiter over the lower half of her face, surrounded by mosquitos in a forest. — Crystal N. Johnson visits the Sax-Zim Bog near Meadowlands, Minnesota, in late July/early August, 2024. She remarked, "Some areas did make me break out my permethrin-treated bug gaiter."

I began studying the eBird lists and watching the incredibly insightful videos made by Sparky Stensaas, Clinton Dexter-Nienhaus, Rich Hoeg and others. I found Facebook pages for the Sax-Zim Bog and Minnesota birding in general. I tested different mosquito repellents. I donated to officially become a Bog Buddy. I studied warbler songs. I was READY!

I couldn't believe this entire adventure was made possible because some random preacher was driving down the street minding his own business a few decades ago, saw a veritable FLOCK of owls and sounded the alarm. People tried to drain the bog (and failed), and the local naturalists and the organisms they loved turned that failure into the world's most satisfying win. What an origin story! You cannot make this stuff up. I can't wait to watch the movie. Quick, somebody request Beyonce to play me when they start casting!

So, finally, the big day came. As I turned off Highway 53 onto Highway 133, I rolled down my windows to take it all in: the birdsongs, the aroma of the conifers and the rain that had just started, and the fact that I had finally made it to the Sax-Zim Bog.

The image shows County Road 229, as viewed through a car window. It is a gravel road surrounded by open areas with a spruce forest in the distance. — Crystal N. Johnson visits the Sax-Zim Bog in Meadowlands, Minnesota, in late July/early August of 2024. She remarked, "A beautiful view of County Road 229. I could have spent two weeks just exploring this one road alone. I had the whole place to myself. It was pure bliss and utter peace."

That's when it started. A car drove around me. I thought, "Hmm ... That's odd ... Guy must have been in a hurry ... He's missing all the birds..." [shrug]

Then it happened again. And again. I started to wonder, "Is this a Minnesota thing? Why is everybody in such a hurry? They're not going to see ANY good birds like THAT."

It wasn't until about the 37th pass that I remembered. This was NOT a birding festival. These are people trying to get to work, to dinner, to the gas station, and generally living their lives. As residents tend to do.

Folks, I knew about this faux pas. I had read it over and over again on the forums. I guffawed and huffed and puffed and said to myself, "Well I would never be that person!" Before I departed Louisiana, I even had two large magnets printed that I could affix to my car doors as a way to say, "Excuse me for being in y'all's way." I KNEW better.

A tractor driving along a paved road is pictured through a car window. The road is lined with aspens and pine trees. — Crystal N. Johnson visits the Sax-Zim Bog in Meadowlands, Minnesota, in late July/early August, 2024. She remarked, "An authentic Sax-Zim Bog traffic jam. I was sorry when it ended. This farmer's slow progress gave me permission to slow down and enjoy the view."

And yet ... when faced with the bounty of birds, goldenrods, butterflies and trees that I was too overwhelmed to take in quickly and keep moving, I turned into the very person I swore I would not become. I couldn't help myself.

Y'all. I am so, so sorry.

During my vacation in Meadowlands, I saw many birds, insects, plants and mushrooms that I had never seen before. I walked down trails in the dark in a town I'd never visited and felt perfectly comfortable, despite looking like a skulking weirdo slapping at blood-suckers that were only visible to me and swearing under my breath. My one regret was saying yes when I was offered fresh corn. Big mistake. It was the freshest, richest corn I'd ever tasted, and now I have to live with the burden of knowledge that the previously frozen corn I've been eating all this time has been blasphemously subpar.

Crystal N. Johnson visits the Sax-Zim Bog in Meadowlands, Minnesota in late July/early August, 2024. She remarked, "I had the trails all to myself. I'd choose a swarm of mosquitoes over crowds of people any day."

I met educators, naturalists, tradesmen, birders, farmers, politicians, mail carriers, car mechanics, bakers, entrepreneurs and all manner of residents, and I received absolute 100% hospitality from this city that I now love and can't wait to visit again. I ate some of the best corn and carrots I have ever tasted. I became very adept at finding and predicting pull-off spots to let residents pass. Curiously, when I asked around for opinions on whether to display my "I am a birder" magnets, the responses were universally the same three-word answer: “Oh, we KNOW.”

So, this is a long-winded way of saying: Many thanks to Megan and Aaron, to Kelly and all the Friends of the Sax-Zim Bog, to the amazing Mary Lou, to the Meadowlands residents, to J. M. Auto Service for their integrity when I had car trouble, and to all the patient drivers for indulging this southerner. I thank you for having me.

And, if you are a fellow Southerner who wants to cool off in the summer and get away from crowds, don't just sit there scrolling and daydreaming! A friend said, "You're the youngest you'll ever be right this moment. Do the thing NOW."

So, book your trip now! I will be back soon. This time I will restrict my open-mouthed gawking to the side roads. Do I at least get partial credit for not staring into people's homes?

Sincerely,
Crystal N. Johnson
-Birder, Slow Driver, Gawker